More photos! check 'em out at: http://picasaweb.google.com/cjallo9

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Mirupafshim Shqiperi

I admit I never wanted to come to eastern Europe.

After turning down a position in (subsuharan) Africa our recruiter said she could nominate us for an Eastern European country, but if we said no we shouldn't expect another offer. My heart sank. Europe? That's the last thing I wanted for my peace corps experience. I signed up to go live somewhere totally new and interesting, out in a lush tropical jungle or in the barren desert steps.

The peace corps website groups Eastern Europe and the Caucus region together; is she hinting that we would be in the Balkans, or would the Stans be included?

Chris and I went to the Phoenix public library and pulled out all of the country books they might send us to: Moldova,Macedonia, Georgia, Bulgaria, Romania, Albania, Kazakhstan, Kyrgistan, Ukraine, and Tajikistan. Kyrigistan boasts incredible beauty and isolated villages up in the mountains where the snow hovers 365 days per year (eek! send me to the jungle!). Georgia sounds quite interesting, though apparently a vigorous drinking culture which might be a little offputting. Ukraine was considerethe breadbasket of the communist block, that could be nice. However the one country that stood out as the most untouched and perhaps unpolluted by foreigners was Albania, the tiny once-communist outpost lodged between Italy and Greece. If we have to go anywhere in the region we hoped it would be there.

I remember landing at Tirane's tiny airport, approaching its green valley on a cold March day. The entire group of volunteers, 37 strangers I didn't know I would grow love, was bused to Elbasan and quickly herded into a large hotel at the city's edge (ahh Universe. You will forever hold a place in my heart.) I will never forget (and in case I do thank goodness I have this blog) taking a walk around town on that freezing, rainy day, hopelessly disappointed in my new foreign home. I could have been any run down American suburban neighborhood, perhaps in New Jersey- the buildings looked like normal concrete blocks, the fast food shops advertised pizza, there were portly white people wrapped in jeans and long winter coats bustling through the streets.

So much for indigenous shamans and birthing rituals.

Albania is very much a Balkan state, full of hot headed little Napoleans and women whose fashion sense is that of a prostitute. During the communist regime religious ideology was banned (unless your were worshipping the cult hero Enver Hoxha) and many of the ancient Byzantine churches and ottoman mosques were destroyed. While some buildings survived and a few have been restored, the real heart of people's faith has been thoroughly erradicated.

For a Muslim country it's a little odd that pork is practically the national dish. My host family was baffled when I asked them if they follow the five pillars of Islam, they had never heard of it. Being Muslim inside Albania means little more than perhaps what region you are from, or explains one's family name, which was surely changed during the Ottoman occupation. Albanians outside Albania (namely Kosovars and Macedonians) are far more devout Muslims; the women are more often covered and their mosques provide these Albanians a sense of community.

So two and a half years have passed since Chris and I moved to Albania. I've gained an incredible wealth of knowledge about this region's history, politics, culture, and modern life. I picked up the language (sounds very nonshalant but it was a lot of work!). I saw corruption. I still see corruption, and it's easier to pick it out everywhere, which makes me feel kind of jaded. I learned to eat and cook (and enjoy) new and previously off-limits foods (like plain yogurt and oily pastries). I even began to enjoy monotanous circle dancing!!

Ok so it's not what I expected, but I had an incredible experience in Shqiperia, and changed my opinion of Eastern Europe and the Balkans entirely. Along the way I found dozens of lifelong friends; leaving them is probably the most depressing part of finishing service.

And the people? I'm a believer that there are good and bad people everywhere. From a hitch hiker's viewpoint Albanians are the kindest and most generous people- eager to pick up a foreigner and even likely to take them for a coffee! Like many Peace Corps volunteers I too found a circle of amazing friends and neighbors, I think that's just how life works out. It's pretty hard to stay long in a small, close community without eventually finding people to love and care about. I was just lucky enough to find them in the Land of the Eagle.

29 comments:

K said...

Thank you for taking the time to understand and enjoy Albania!

Being an Albanian student in the US, I know very well that there is a big difference between our cultures and lifestyles.

It's sad that most foreigners don't know a lot about Albania (probably because of the history), and even the things they know are not completely accurate or positive. I am sure your blog will do some good in that direction. :)

All the best and feel free to come back anytime!

Anonymous said...

You said that Albanian girls dress like prostitutes. Guess what... North American ‘style’ is lazy and unoriginal for the most part.Every outfit is a variation of jeans and T Shirts. Oh except when they go to work. For work, men will wear what they call, ‘dress pants’ (which I think is a complete oxymoron, but whatever). The whole theme in North America seems to be casual comfort. And, due to the growing obesity problem, there soon won’t be any other choice.

Anonymous said...

You say Albanian women dress like prostitues. Then you say Albania is a muslim country. At this point you should ask yourself, how namely muslim are the Albanians? Albania doesn't follow any islamic code for its laws. Afghanistan and Arabia are islamic countries, understand the difference? You spread only disinformation. Stop giving outdated statics of Ex-Yugoslavia or your fiend Azziz.

Anonymous said...

Well spoken write up, what a great life adventure! Keep up the great work and great writing, your a natrual

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info@nepalbasecamptreks.com
URL:- www.nepalbasecamptreks.com

Anjan Tamang said...

Local Trekking Company Government license holder under Nepal Government, Since 2005 to till regulary leading as Trekking in Nepal, As Annapurna base camp trek, Ghorepani Poonhill Trek, Langtang Valley trek, Annapurna circuit trek, Annapurna siklish trek, Upper Mustang trek, Langtang goshainda lake trek, Helambhu Circuit trek, tamanag heritage Trek, Rupinala Pass Trek, Manaslu Circuit trek, Manaslu Tsum valley Trek, Upper Dolpo trek, Everest Base camp trek, Everest Chola pass Gokyo lake trek, Everest three pass trek, Jiri to Everest base camp trek, And many others activates peak Climbing in Nepal, top trekking peak as Island peak climbing, Mera peak climbing, Yala peak climbing, Pisang peak climbing, Chulu west and east peak climbing, excellent more adventure mountaineering Package tour, River rafting, Paragliding in Nepal, Bungee Jump in Nepal, Heli tour in Nepal, Mountain Flight in Nepal. Nepal High trek Pvt. Ltd. Offer for 2016 to 2017 full board package trip and 70 % past client revisit with Tour Leader Mr. Anjan Tamang. If you need any further query you can call or Contact directly.

Yam Panta said...

Definitely, Nepal is a dreamland for many adventure, highland trek and enormous legendry culture. Many hundred thousands of tourist are visiting in Nepal for Himalaya trekking, peak climbing,mountain expedition, sun rise/sunset views hiking trip, white water adventure, wild life safaris and many adventure sports. Although, we are A One Nepal Trek Company is local based pioneer trekking agency of Nepal. We have emotionally operating a best delightful mountain holiday in Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan for our valued clients as per them willing with reasonable cost/price. All managed by well-known professional team, our Trekking Guides/Porters, /Tours Guides are fully trained, rich experience of service field and license holder. Surely, we well have be ever attention for your pleasure holiday in Nepal, and long term relationship as a friend. we are regulary promote this items ghorepani poon hill trek, annapurna base camp trek, upper mustang trek, Manaslu circuit trek, Manaslu tsum valley trek, langtang valley trek, langtang tamang heritage trail, langtang goshaikunda lake trek, Helambu circuit trek, everest base camp trek, gokya lake trek, everest chola pass trek, jiri to Everest base camp trek, And other Adventure Peak Climbing in Nepal as Island peak climbing, Mera Peak climbing, Lobuche Peak climbing & Other packages tours in Nepal.
Best regard by Trekking in Nepal

Rabin Gurung said...

Shiva Excursion Pvt. Ltd. is Dynamically Design by choice of Customer Activities in Nepal. Local Base License holder Trekking Company & 15 Years Experiences Trekking tour Seller with more Adventure Activities Operated Trekking agency in Nepal.
The top ten High Light full Board Package Activities As Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek, Annapurna round trek, Nar Phu Valley Trek, Upper Mustang trek, Manaslu circuit trek, Manaslu tsum valley trek, Ganesh himal Trek, Ruby Valley trek, Langtang valley trek, Langtang tamang Heritage trail, goshainkunda Lake pass, Helambu circuit trek, Everest base Camp Trek most challenging high passes as Everest Chola & Renjola Pass, Everest Three high pass, Ganjala Pass trek. Other Wilderness less touristic area as Kanchenjunga Trek, Makalu Base Camp trek & most high Light Adventure Peak Climbing in Nepal as Island Peak Climbing, Mera Peak Climbing & Loboje Peak Climbing.
The rare with wildlife activities tour in Nepal, Kathmandu to Chitwan jungle seafaring & more touring programs Manage by Shiva Excursion Pvt. Ltd.
Best Regard by
trekking in nepal

Arjun Simkhada said...

Trekking in Nepal…Family Adventure style
The towering Himalayas are, to many travellers’ minds, the chief reason for visiting Nepal. The country tumbles steeply down from the 800km stretch of the Himalayan battlements that forms its northern border, and can claim no fewer than eight of the world’s ten highest peaks – including, of course, Everest, the highest of them all. The mountains are more than just physically astonishing, however. The cultures of highland-dwelling Nepalese peoples are rich and fascinating, and the relaxed, companionable spirit of trekking life is an attraction in itself. The Himalayas have long exerted a powerful spiritual pull, too. In Hindu mythology, the mountains are where gods go to contemplate, while the Sherpas and other mountain peoples hold certain peaks to be the very embodiment of deities.
Most visitors to mountain areas stick to a few well-established trekking routes. They have good reasons for doing so: the classic trails of the Everest region with its famous trails like Everest Base camp trek and the 3 high passes are both mind blowing ventures and highly popular in the world. And Annapurna regions are so popular because they offer close-up views of the very highest peaks; this includes Annapurna 1 & 2, fishtail peak and Ganesh Himal trek. Famous treks like the Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek, Annapurna Base camp trek & the Annapurna Circuit trek are some of the most famous on earth. Dramatic scenery and fascinating local cultures are most known in this area. Lodges on the main trails – some as sophisticated as ski chalets, these days – make it possible to go without carrying a lot of gear or learning Nepali, and without spending too much money, either. While trekking, you’ll likely eat and sleep for $20–30 a day. For those who put a high priority on getting away from it all, there are plenty of less-developed routes, of course, and simply going out of season or taking a side-route off the main trail makes a huge difference.
The Helambu and Langtang regions are less striking but conveniently close to Kathmandu, attracting a little fewer than ten percent of trekkers. The Langtang valley trek & the Ganja-La pass are known trails in this area. This leaves vast areas of eastern and far western Nepal relatively untrodden by visitors. To hike in these areas you’ll need either to get set for camping and carry your own supplies, and live like a local, or pay to join an organized trek with tents and accept the compromises that go along with that.
With a good operator, you can anywhere in the wild. A Great Himalayan Trail now runs the length of highland Nepal – though it will be for some time, if ever, before such a route will be serviced by lodges.
Treks in remote far eastern and far western Nepal are mostly restricted to two kinds of globe trotters, both adventurous in their own way. The majority come on organized camping treks with agencies – in fact, this is obligatory for those areas that require a permit. The minority are independent trekkers prepared either to carry tents and food or negotiate with porters, or to seek food and lodging in local homes and basic lodges. Some great camping outdoors include the Manaslu circuit Trek, Upper Mustang trek the Dhaulagiri circuit, Rara lake trek and the great Kangchenjunga trek, both north and south.

Rabin Gurung said...

It is hard work and more care trekking guide in Nepal Rabin Gurung is since 1997 to till as professional freelancer Trekking Guide in Nepal. Specially Recomment of Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek, Upper mustang trek, Manaslu Circuit trek, Manaslu Tsum Valley Trek, Langtang Valley trek, Goshaikuna lake trek, Helambu circuit trek, Everest base camp trek, gokyo lake trek, Annapurna Circuit trek and Peak climbing in Nepal as well Island Peak Climbing, Mera Peak Climbing, Lobuje peak Climbing and Many other activities in Nepal.